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Thursday, 13 March 2014

Home Brew - the difficult second brew (this time theres no kit)

Okay so I've talked you through my first brew from a kit, now onto a brew from scratch. I don't have a mash tun and i don't have the room to acquire one to do a full mash brew - though i was able to improvise and do a part mash brew and make the first step towards my dream of making the perfect German style Weiss bier (or hefeweizen). I took my queue from a recipe in a brewing book i have and ill take you step by step how i went through the recipe to produce my brew.

Step 1 - Heat 3 litres of water to 75 degrees Celsius. Then add the Vienna Malt Grains (1.5kg) and the gypsum. I used my wife's Jam making pan which has a large capacity for such an occasion and a sugar thermometer that hung over the edge of the pan would allow me to keep an eye on the temperature of the water so I'd know when to add the grains.

Step 2 - Then bring the temperature of the grain and waters mixture down to 65 degrees Celsius. I found that putting the pan on the smallest ring at the lowest setting on the ring kept it at a nice steady 65 degrees.

Step 3 - Mash the liquid for an hour. I have no idea what happens in a mash tun
but i assumed that keeping the temperature of the mixture for an hour at 65 degrees and covered would do the trick. I found that our largest frying pan would act perfectly as a lid for the pan.

Step 4 - Strain out the grains, pouring the water into a second pot. I achieved this by pouring from the pot through a sieve into the fermenting tub as a temporary storage.

Step 5 - Heat 2 litres of water to 75 degrees and rinses the grains with it. I just boiled my kettle with 2 litres of water in it and after letting go a little bit of the boil, i poured the contents through the grains in the sieve into the liquid already in the fermenting tub.

Step 6 - Add the malt extracts (1.5kg Amber Malt and 1.5kg Wheat Malt) and Hallertauer Hops to the water and boil for 30 mins. I basically cleaned out my jam pot and poured the liquid (wort) from my fermenting tub back into it. Then as with my kit i warmed my cans of malt extract in warm water before opening and pouring the contents into the liquid and measured 42g of my hops on my scales and added, and after raising the temperature of the liquid to a rolling boil before setting a timer for 30mins.

Step 7 - 28 mins into the boil add the Chinook hops (9g)  As above just weighed 9g of hops on my scales before adding to the pot.

Step 8 - Put 8 litres of water into your fermenter and add the hot wort. Top up the water so the volume reaches 23 litres. This is straight forward, there are markings all the way up the fermenting tub to show what the volume is.

Step 9 - when the wort temperature reaches is 25-27 degrees Celsius, pitch the yeast. Cover the mixture and attach the airlock the airlock. The temperature could again be gauged using the sugar thermometer. Pitching the yeast is really just a fancy term for adding it to the mixture. I used a liquid Hefeweizen yeast - this comes chilled and it needs to be removed from the fridge 3 hours or so before adding so it can get up to temperature. The airlock works just by half filling with water and placing in the hole in the lid of the fermenting tub. This shows you the activity in the tub without having to open he lid as bubbles appear to indicate how much fermentation is going on below - no activity means fermentation is over.

Step 10 - Ferment for at least 10 days before transferring and conditioning. I decided to do a secondary fermentation in my barrel after 10 days and then bottle condition. I'm experimenting with bottle conditioning and did my first batch after 4 days in the barrel - 14 days after brew day. This involved adding a little sugar to each bottle before filling with beer from the barrel. Doing it this way should mean i get maximum carbonation rather than losing most of it while bottling as i did with my first brew. I shall do another batch 3 weeks after brew day and then a last batch 4 weeks after brew day. This should determine the optimum fermentation time for the future. The beer will be bottled for at least 2 weeks before drinking.

Early indications from appearance and aroma are that it has all the characteristics of a Weiss bier - which is very encouraging.










Wednesday, 5 March 2014

Home Brew Talk - Bottling that first beer and lessons learned.

Tuesday 25th February marked 3 weeks from the moment i'd prepared my first brew for fermentation. According to the instructions on the kit that i was using, this was the time it was ready. So it was now time for me to bottle my beer ready for drinking.

I had had concerns previously that there wasn't enough carbonation in my beer and that previous attempts to add carbonation through the use of cO2 canisters had i thought proved unsuccessful. Firstly, by wasting on canister through testing how to use the cO2 tap and secondly by the pressure revealing a small imperfection in my barrel that allowed beer to run out until i released the pressure by unscrewing the lid of the barrel a bit. So i decided to give it one more try before bottling - reasoning that the pressure would be released by opening the tap on the barrel to fill my bottles.

In order to save a bit of money, i decided not to buy new bottles for use with my home brews, but rather had kept back empty bottles from beers i'd been drinking over the past few months. This means i have a variety of sizes and colours of bottles. In order to prepare the bottles for use - i steeped them once in the bath in really hot water to get the labels off, then before use steeped in the bath again with warm water and a few teaspoons of sterilising powder. This would cut down on the amount of bacterial contamination when bottling my beer.

It seemed to my bottling should be a straight forward process. Simply open the tap and pour straight in to the bottles - close the tap when nearly full then cap. I bought some crown caps and a capper from my trip to the brew store and this was a simple tool to use. You simply place your cap in the middle of the capper, where it is held in place with a magnet. You then place the cap over the top of your bottle and pull the two handles of the capper down until they are both down to 90 degree angles sideways sticking out from the central stem of the capper. This was a dawdle to use and only once did i slightly have the cap off centre and encounter difficulties (which just meant uncapping the bottle and trying again).

There was a slight problem when opening the tap on the barrel. Turns out the beer was very well carbonated (it turns out the sugar alone is enough to create carbonation) and when opening the tap it came out in a spraying motion (like if you drop a bottle of fizzy juice and it sprays everywhere) and this meant that i would need to use a funnel to gather all the liquid to trickle into the bottle. It also meant that as i filled the bottles there was a massive head building in the bottles - meaning it took several rounds of filling a bit at a time to fill the bottles. This was a pain but eventually i ended up with all my bottles filled and only a tiny bit of liquid with sediment left at the bottom of my barrel which i discarded.













I immediately opened one bottle to try one of my beers and was a little disappointed that it was very flat and it tasted not bad but a little tainted with a bitter after taste and had a cloudy appearance. Slightly disappointing but not unexpected given it was my first brew.

I have found that as i've left bottles lying in the spare room and drunk some a week later - a little carbonation has returned, suggesting theres still enough sugar in the beer to encourage carbonation after bottling. The beer has cleared as well and is tasting a lot less bitter.

So what have a i learned from my first brew.

1. Take measurements of the specific gravity of the brew before and after fermentation to be able to gauge ABV, as i've no idea of the alcohol content of my first brew because i took no initial measurement.

2. Bottle condition rather than barrel condition. I'll use my barrel for a secondary fermentation now and add sugar only just before bottling to ensure that carbonation occurs in the bottle so that when i drink one it develops a head as expected and is as refreshing as i'd like.

3. Don't bother with cO2 canisters. Sugar is enough to carbonate and with my barrel it just causes problems.

4. Give it more time. It seems the more time you give beer the better it becomes (obvious i know but difficult giving the eagerness to try it).

5. More sterilisation of equipment to ensure the beer is not tainted. I think being slightly lax is what as accounted for the bitter taste of my beer.

I look forward to applying these lessons learnt to processing my second brew which early signs suggest is progressing well, smelling exactly as a Hefeweizen should and tasting (i had a swig of the sample i used to measure gravity) well balanced. I'll discuss how i approached my first part mash brew in next weeks Home Brew Talk









Beer Review - Clock Brew

Name: Clock Brew

 Origin: St. Andrews

Style: Traditional Scottish Ale

Brewery: Eden Brewery

ABV: 4.3%

Appearance: Dark, ruby red.

Aroma: Hoppy, treacle.

Taste: Slightly peppery with a smooth finish.

Notes: I'm not a fan generally of darker ales but this is a finer example of one.

Rating: 6.5/10

Monday, 3 March 2014

Monday Playlist - Sarah Records.....

This week I've decided to do a playlist of the best of the bands from the legendary indie label - Sarah Records. Enjoy :)

1. Talulah Gosh - Talulah Gosh


2. The Field Mice - If You Need Someone


3. The Sea Urchins - Pristine Christine


4. Aberdeen - Fireworks


5. 14 Iced Bears - Come Get Me


6. Another Sunny Day - I'm In Love With A Girl Who Doesn't Know I Exist


7. The Orchids - I Got A Habit


8. Heavenly - Our Love Is Heavenly


9. The Sugargliders - Ahprahran


10. Blueboy - Clearer


11. Even As We Speak - Falling Down The Stairs


12. The Springfield - Sunflower